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Chamonix Skiing
Vital statistics:
- Altitude: 3,400-12,600ft [1,035-3,850m]
- Marked piste: 500km
- Slope direction: N,S,E,W
- Off piste: Infinite!
Skiers arrive in Chamonix as if it were the Holy of Holies, contemplating the pilgrimage to some of the most awesome skiing in the Alps, or anywhere else for that matter. The Mont Blanc lift pass covers 13 resorts in the region including Megeve, St Gervais, Les Houches and Les Contamines, while the ChamSki lift pass covers the 4 Chamonix areas of Le Brevent, La Flegere, Le Tour, Les Grands Montets and the lift to the Aiguille de Midi.
Le Brevent is the closest to the Chamonix centre and has some extremely tough descents, including plenty of off-piste couloirs from the top station. In contrast it also has some pleasant reds and blues around the mid-station at Planpraz and the Savoy nursery slope is at the bottom of the valley.
La Flegere, adjacent to Le Brevent and also south facing is reached by cable car from Les Praz (or by cable car from Brevent) and is excellent for intermediates who enjoy long rolling runs. There are several quite easy off-piste diversions along the way and in the right conditions, a very interesting run back down to the valley.
Close to the Swiss border, past Argentiere, Le Tour is the best area in the valley for beginners, with long gentle runs and splendid views. For the more adventurous the back bowls heading down to Vallorcine offer uncongested on and off-piste runs with reliable snow conditions.
Brevent, Flegere and Le Tour are however, merely the supporting cast for the valley's star attractions – Les Grands Montets and the Vallee Blanche. Les Grands Montets has a top station of over 10,000 feet and is a target of every ambitious skier. Below is an enormous ski area with probably something for everyone – powder bowls, moguls and many red and blue pistes. The run back to the bottom is gloriously long and makes your legs burn when rushing down for the last bus.
One Alpine myth is that the Vallee Blanche is only to be attempted by experts. It is a wonderful high-altitude run through a winter wonderland of magnificent glacial monoliths and serene valleys, with breathtaking views all round. For good intermediate skiers, this is an adventure not to be missed.
Ski GuidingThe Vallee Blanche is not the only off-piste run that can be attempted by those that don't consider themselves to be experts or reckless. There are dozens of mini-adventures to be had with the aid of a local guide. Just think – no lift queues, no crowds and no noise – just some of the most striking terrain you'll ever see…..
A possible itinerary for a week's touring would look like this:
Sunday Warm up on the slopes at Brevent and Flegere, tackling some straight forward off-piste while never far from a groomed run.
Monday Explore the acres of bowls, bumps and powder on the Grands Montets.
Tuesday Take a short trip through the Mont-Blanc tunnel to the Italian resort of Courmayeur.
Wednesday The Vallee Blanche – the ultimate Alpine wonderland. Alternatively, if the weather is not kind, a visit can be made to another area of the valley such as Les Houches.
Thursday The Grands Montets again [trust me, you won't tire of it!]
Friday Megeve, St Gervais or Verbier, the choice is yours.
The above will usually cost in the region of €300 per person or you can hire a guide for a day from €60.
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